Why potatoe form mini tubers

I have had a number of potato tubers form tiny potatoes on the side of them. Kinda like the potato had baby's attached. Sometimes it is caused by the tuber being old. Yet, this one was never dug up from growing new. I have heard a potato can do this if it is stressed also. 

Dry potato with small micro tubers attached

I was never able to harvest this plant. The top died back like it was time to harvest. Yet, new growth was forming from the new potatoes. With all the rain and temperature up and down. I think this broke the dormancy of the new tuber. Or it had no dormancy in it. I do not have a name for this potato. It was part of an exotic variety pack I ordered to grow this year. It did have a dark purple to brown woody stem and purple flowers.

wet potato tuber to show more color

It seems the loner I leave these micro tubers attached the more they grow and the parent potato shrinks from feeding it. I have them sitting out of soil now. Yet they continue to enlarge. Adding water to the parent helps it to survive and re-hydrate a bit. If I were to put it in moist cocoa coir it would help to re-hydrate it more. Yet it could create roots to get the get plant process going again.

Let's make some comfry tea organic fertilizer

This is not for drinking our self. This is for giving your vegetable or household plants some Comfry organic fertilizer. The nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK) ratio of dried comfrey leaves is 1.8-0.5-5.3; comfrey also contains calcium.

All you do is pull of some of the leaves with the stem. comfrey leaves can irritate the skin, so wear gloves. Add some of the flower parts dry or green. Once you have enough for your bucket. You compress them down with some weight. A brick , board or rock will do. Add water to fill. 

Let the bucket sit with a lid on top. As soon as 20 days pass you can start using it. In about 3 weeks, you will have a liquid fertilize. It will become a gooey substance the longer it sets.  . It will ferment, so the smell will not be so good. I would suggest you keep it outside. The sun may cook it. But shade will do a slow ferment.

When you go to use it. Dilute 1/2 and 1/2 with water. Or thin to 1 part comfry 9 parts water. It is up to you how strong you want to use it.

You can also use the leaves as a mulch.. Or bury the leaves about 2 inches under the soil. It will break down quickly.

Growing Oca in Missouri.

 This year was an experiment in growing Oca (Oxalis tuberosa, in my climate. For a bit I felt like a failure. When our temperatures reached  97f. Most of the plants I had in full sun fell over and died really fast. Even though they had many weeks of extreme rain. We did not have enough sun or good weather for them to fully develop a good top or sufficient root growth. The ones on the back side of the fence sat there like the broccoli did.Stayed immature and died not long after. I have only 3 of 13 variety's to survive real life in Missouri. Other than they were protected by the Bushentino beans from morning sun. They had after noon sun, when we did have any to speak of.. But to be fair. I did it like i would have if I were to have bought them to grow in my yard. So this is a fair test. If I would have put them in a green house environment, or containers. It would have saved more of them. But not prove they could grow in my area. So I have to accept the challenge was done the right way. Because a typical buyer wants to know it will work. Or it has to be babied, like a tropical plant. Yet a tropical plant can survive the summer in my area but not the winter.
Now that temperature are dropping  and the lay length is getting shorter, Tubers are starting to form on some of these  I moved the small one to a grow bag. It has no tubers. The one in the container behind it has 1 white tuber forming so far. I have had frost covers on them. But with temps falling to 28f 33 f and going back up into the 50, 60 and 70's The leaves are suffering a bit. I do not know if I can keep it going into December. One min it looks good the next not so good. But it is still alive.

These are the 3 variety's, I have still growing. 
Oca-OC-14-2x08x05

Yellow with	Light red (pink)

Country of origin Bolivia 
is an abundant flowerier, which set quite a bit of seed in it's state of origin. .


Oca-OC-14-1x14x08
Light red (pink) White

I may be the only person in the world with OC-14-1x14x08.

OC-14-1x10x15
 Purple-red
 The most promising variety for yield can have more than 2 pounds from the seedling.

This is what they looked like on Nov 2, 2015. The green has perked up and Ok now. But the lighter parts can not be saved. But the good news it is still growing. The tubers were about 1/2 inch in size. I one looks a little bit to see one for each plant. There may be more. But I do not want to cause too much stress.

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WHITE MULTIPLIER ONION

I recieved my order today, I am impressed. you can tell by looking at them the are real multipliers. They sold out fast too.
This person wrote this info on them. I will add what I find below the post.

A HERITAGE VARIETY ONION SETS, MULTIPLIER ONION SETS. These are the kind your Grandparents had that makes green onions in fall and winter. Save bulbs for next year. I paid $5.50 per pound, shipping $6.25

The paper included said. Plant them all. Large or small, all will produce green onions, or leave them to make bulbs, each cluster in this box is from 1 small set. 

Look closely at the amount of green coming out of each white bulb. The difference in  normal onions and multiplying onions is. 1 bulb or seed creates 1 normal onion. When on bulb of a multiplier onion creates many onions, that are full of divisions to create even more.

Planting onions
onions do best if the soil pH is between 5.5 and 6.5, a little on the acid side.
Add organic matter, like compost or dry leaves decayed leaves .it acts like a sponge, holding moisture near the surface. That's good for onions, which have shallow roots and can't tap water or nutrients deep in the soil.Clay soil will puddle water on top. So sand and humus/manure should be added.

I am planting in a raised bed. With lots of humus/manure. I have read, Onions like to feed 2x as much as other vegetables. If you find your onions have pale yellow or greenish yellow leaves, that would indicate that onions could lack nitrogen. Also leaves can yellow after long, wet periods of weather because a lot of rain washes nitrogen from the soil.   It's difficult to over-fertilize onions. They require quite a lot of nutrients.